True A Bike Wheel Rim To Make It A Flat Disc

Watch the rim carefully and move the index point so that it just drags on the rim at the extreme point of it’s buckle. Use the barrel adjuster of a rim brake to reach this point. To true a rim is much easier if you have a wheel-jig.

The spokes going to the hub flange opposite the point where the rim kisses the brake – or other index – need to be tightened.

You true a rim by tighten opposite spokes all along the buckle tightening the ones in the middle more than those at the end. Make small adjustments don’t give any spoke more than a half turn before checking and re-diagnosing.

As the rim improves tighten the brake or move the index point to find a new position where it drags on the rim.

If you need to tighten any spoke more than a whole turn you need to loosen the other side. If you only tighten you pull the rim towards the hub and wheel starts to loose its roundness.

Between each round of adjustment and re-diagnosis stress the spokes using the procedure checking spoke tension and squeezing hard. This releases any twisting forces trapped in the spokes. If you don’t do this the forces will be released the first time the bike is ridden and the wheel may go out of true straight away. This stressing process is the main difference between a hand-built wheel and one built by a machine.